Medical Issues in Paris (aka The Agony and the Ecstasy)

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You walk everywhere in Paris. It’s a pedestrian town. I love that about it. You feel much more connected to the city and its people when you are walking. You walk to the metro, to the grocery store, the butcher, the boulangerie, the wine shop. It’s a wonderful way to live — until something goes wrong. After we’d lived here for about six months, my right foot started hurting terribly; so badly, I could barely walk. So, I phoned a doctor at the American Hospital of Paris. Why there, you may ask?

Even when you speak French well enough to get along with day-to-day conversations, it is important to have a doctor who speaks your native language really well. There are too many scary discussions about symptoms, tests and complicated treatments. All of these things need to be understood completely on both sides of the desk. As a result, many Expats choose the American Hospital of Paris when they have a medical issue — even when they’ve lived here for years. Although the assistants at the hospital usually only speak French, the doctors there are required to be fluent in English.

Back to the foot. I booked the first available appointment with an internist. Normal waiting time for an appointment to see any doctor at this hospital is approximately two to four weeks. So, two weeks later I saw him, and he referred me to an orthopedist. I called and booked her first available appointment which was another two weeks away. So far, we’re a month into this, with my foot still hurting like crazy.

When I finally arrived at the appointment, the orthopedist began speaking to me in French. I asked her if we could continue in English since discussing medical matters was difficult for me in French, and she told me she didn’t speak English.  Oh boy.

So, for the next hour, we had a consultation entirely in French. I was proud but needed a cocktail by the time it was over. Long story short, she thought the foot might be broken but she wasn’t sure. So, she gave me a list of four different tests I needed to complete at the hospital. After that, we’d meet again to go over the official diagnosis and treatment plan.

Due to overbooking and a broken MRI machine, the tests took about three weeks to complete. Then, it was another week before I could meet again with the orthopedist. We had another half-hour discussion in French about my foot. Turns out, I had a stress fracture of my right heel. The treatment she prescribed?  No walking!  The conversation went something like this:

Doctor: “Don’t walk.”

Me: “But I live in Paris. We walk everywhere.”

Doctor (laughing): “I know, it’s difficult, but just don’t do it.”

Me: “For how long?

Doctor: “I don’t know. Come see me in about a month.”

So for a month, I basically laid on the sofa and waited.

Total time to diagnose a broken foot and find out the treatment plan?  Two months! That’s right…two months. To diagnose a broken foot. The foot still hurts, by the way. It’s still a problem. And I don’t have the heart to go through it all again to see if there’s anything else we can do to make it better.

Fast forward to about a month ago: My back goes out. This is not the first time my back has gone out, but it’s the first time in Paris. And here, when your back goes out, it’s even more complicated than the foot thing. The pain was so intense that I told my husband I might have to go to the hospital. He very sweetly pointed out that since I couldn’t walk, he’d need to call an ambulance. And since I couldn’t stand, I couldn’t take our tiny elevator downstairs, so the EMTs would have to carry me down five flights of stairs on a stretcher. They would take me to the hospital in the ambulance where I would have to stay until my treatment was decided. Then, if I still couldn’t stand, I’d have to take another ambulance to get home, and the EMTs would have to carry me back up five flights of stairs on a stretcher to get me into our apartment.  Uh, no. There’s only so much humiliation a Texas girl can stand, after all. But what was my alternative?

Well, since my first orthopedist didn’t speak English, I didn’t want to go back to her. It was fine discussing a problem with my foot, but when we start talking about my spine and possible surgeries, I need a doctor who speaks English. As a result, I had to get another referral from the primary care physician for a new orthopedist. I just have to tough it out at home until then. Keep in mind that this means I have to be flat on my back in our apartment while I wait. The doctor referred me to another orthopedist, promising that this one would speak English. Now, it’s been almost a month since my back went out, and I’m still waiting for my first appointment with the new orthopedist. He will almost certainly schedule a battery of tests (three weeks for those) and then refer me to a surgeon (three more weeks). Then the surgeon will schedule a hospital procedure. Who knows how long that will take to schedule since they’ll need to book an operating room?  I’m looking at three months of appointments, tests and stressful conversations about treatment. And, in the meantime, it hurts to walk. It hurts a lot. So, I spend many days lying either on the sofa or in bed.

Interesting plot twist: Did you know that spending weeks lying in bed can cause problems with your lungs?  Well, it can. Thank goodness mine was limited to a severe case of bronchitis and not pneumonia. Nevertheless, every time I had a coughing and choking fit, it felt like someone was jamming a knife in my lower back. For two days and nights, this went on every few minutes until I finally decided to call SOS Medecin. It’s a service in Paris where doctors make house calls, you know, for when you’re sick and stuck in your apartment like a little old lady. I knew they couldn’t do anything for my spine, but they treat sick people all the time, so I thought they could help me with the coughing.

HOLY COW!!! Best decision ever! What a difference. It was the easiest, most amazing thing. It made me wonder why people in the U.S. ever let doctors stop making house calls. Within thirty minutes of calling the local number and giving them my symptoms and address, a doctor was ringing my doorbell. That’s faster than Domino’s Pizza delivery back in Texas! Funny sidenote though: Even though they promised on the phone that the doctor would, of course, be able to speak English, when he arrived, he spoke only French. (I’ve chosen to find that charming.) He was, however, adorable, efficient and very good at what he did. He examined me, diagnosed me and gave me five prescriptions on the spot (steroids, antibiotics, pills for my lungs, my cough, and an inhaler — the whole deal, baby). Total cost for his visit? 80 Euro. (Frankly, at that point, I would have paid a thousand.)

I shuffled downstairs to the pharmacy in the building and took my medicine within ten minutes of the doctor’s departure. My lungs are so much better already, I feel like a person again. That visit restored my faith in Parisian medicine, and it certainly saved my sanity. The moral of this long, sordid tale?  If you’re sick, get a doctor to make a house call; you’ll be right as rain in no time. But, if you can’t walk, look out. Life can get really complicated.

Wish me well. It looks like it’s going to be a while before I can roam the streets of my favorite city! In the meantime, I’ll just write about Valentine’s Day, our favorite restaurant and all of the wonderful cities in this country that we’ve been able to visit. France is like a family of beautiful daughters. Each of the cities is different, but so lovely and utterly charming. I can’t wait to introduce you to them all. You’re bound to fall in love with at least one of them.

The Christmas Markets of Paris

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I love the Parisian Christmas Markets. When they start showing up, you know Christmas is just around the corner. And you can spot one a mile away. Whenever you see dozens of white tents clumped together like Santa’s mobile workshop, you know you’re in luck. Those white tents remain the same from one market to the next, but each of the markets has its own feel, and as a result, its own special charm.

The Champs Élysées Market feels like a quaint, small town carnival. It comes complete with a giant slide, a spook house, a huge ferris wheel and even its own ice skating rink. Most of the tents in this market are filled with “State Fair” kinds of foods done gourmet style: freshly made waffles, crepes, sausages, paella, shawarma; you can get almost anything here. Gift ideas though, are almost an afterthought at this one. The Champs Élysées market is all about the rides and the food. It feels like something from another era….perfect for a romantic date night in the city.

It stretches from the Champs Élysées all the way to Place de la Concorde. And when you’re standing in the middle of the market, the view is amazing in either direction. Look one way and you’ll see the length of the Champs Élysées stretching all the way to the Arc de Triomphe. Lining either side of the famous boulevard are all those beautiful, square trees, twinkling with blue and white fairy lights. It’s beyond gorgeous.

A look in the other direction, and the white tents lead you straight to the giant Ferris Wheel called “The Roue” -outlined in brilliant white light. During the Christmas season, it sits smack in the middle of Place de la Concorde marking the end of this Christmas bazaar. The Champs Élysées market, with its small town feel and its beautiful views, makes for a perfect, and very different date night out in Paris.

Saint Germain has its own Christmas market as well. Window shopping is one of the main draws of Saint Germain in the first place, and this market lives up to its neighborhood. Its theme is more boutique wines and cognacs with all the fun things to go with them: cheeses, candies, roasted nuts. It’s lovely.

But, my favorite of the Christmas markets is the one at La Defense. It’s HUGE for one thing. And it feels more Christmas-y, somehow. I think it’s the bright red carpets. They run everywhere you go, connecting about 100 white tents at the foot of the Grand Arch. And when you get to “walk the red carpet” from tent to tent, it really puts you in the holiday spirit.

There are the food tents, of course, filled with all sorts of items for stuffing stockings and entertaining for the holidays. They have fois gras, pâté, and every flavor of nougat and Turkish Delight that a child could dream up. For those cold winter nights, there are booths filled with cognacs, armagnacs and wines. And of course, they have French cheeses, but not just the ones that typically come to mind. Yes, they have camembert and brie, but they also have artisanal cheeses flavored with everything from lavender to wasabi, basil to sun-dried tomato…even coconut. I’ve tried (and bought) all of them. And they are absolutely divine.

If you want to have lunch while you shop, you can grab a raclette sandwich or even sit down for a plate of smoked meats & sausages. For your sweet tooth, there are crepes and waffles, sugared fruits and homemade hot chocolate. Or you can just warm up with a cup of mulled wine while you shop.

La Defense also has dozens of tents with ideas for Christmas presents: beautiful umbrellas, vintage toys, artisan lamps, scarves from India, perfumes and lotions. It’s like the mother of all flea markets, but everything is brand new and filled with promise. There are strings of twinkling lights woven into silk flowers, perfect for decorating the rooms of lucky little girls. There are booths devoted to Russian nesting dolls. I’m guessing those are for the little girl who’s all grown up. There’s even a wonderful little booth that deals exclusively with the jazz greats. Here you can find double CDs of everything from Miles Davis to Nina Simone. And they pipe the music into the market so you can groove while you browse.

As you stroll the red carpet exploring the booths, you are constantly being offered samples of the most wonderful treats -things like crystalized pineapple, nougat, chewy dried figs, chocolate truffles and fresh nuts coated in cinnamon and sugar. Trust me. This is a great way to enjoy a Saturday.

I’ve been to the La Defense market three times this year…It’s that good. My favorite purchase so far has been a gorgeous, red toile umbrella made by a company who has been in business since 1785. Now, when we walk the dogs in the rain, none of us will get the least bit wet.

Merry Christmas…and Joyeux Noel!

I love the French…

I love France. I love the French. I love Parisians.

Many Americans think that Parisians are snooty or cold. This is patently untrue. Almost without exception, I have found Parisians to be wonderful, warm, funny and kind. In fact, one of the reasons I decided to write this blog was to clear up that misconception. Here’s just one small story to prove my point.

I had been living here about 6 months when my back went out. And Leon was out of town so I was on my own. Well, I had nothing in the fridge to eat, so I went downstairs to find something. But I could hardly make it further than the front door of our building. I knew I was in trouble and I saw a restaurant just a bit down the street called New York Café.  (Here’s the link to their Facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/New-York-Café-539415042759964/ And if you come to Paris, you should do yourself a favor and stumble in. They’ll treat you like family. I know, first-hand.)

Anyway, I managed to hobble my way to New York Café with my two dogs – and order a burger to go, so I could eat it back in my bed at home. (Mind you, I had never eaten at this restaurant before…not once.) The chef handed me my burger & fries on a custom china plate, smiled, and said “It will be so much nicer to eat it this way. Just return the plate later – if you can.”  (The burger was delicious, by the way. This photo doesn’t do it justice.)

The next day, Leon came home and I asked him to return the plate for me. He did. Two weeks later, the chef saw me walking the dogs in front of our building and literally yelled down the street, “How are you? Is your back better?” (Again…This was two weeks later!) I replied “Yes, and I wanted you to know that my husband returned your plate the next day.” He just smiled and said, “It’s not important. I am glad you are better. Good afternoon.”

Two days later, he saw me from across the street, walking with my husband, and blew me a kiss.

THESE are the French people I meet over & over in Paris.  These are the people I love.